Food of the Gods: Chocolate, Coffee
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Food of the Gods: Coffee
COFFEE
The
eleventh-century Persian polymath Avicenna, who in 1037 became
history's first recorded death from opium overdose, was one of the
first to write about coffee, though it had been in use for some time in
Ethiopia and Arabia, where the source plant occurred wild. On the
Arabian peninsula it has long been known that coffee was a plant of
marvelous properties. There is even an apocryphal story that when the
Prophet lay ill he was visited by the Archangel Gabriel who offered him
coffee to restore him to health. Because of the plant's long
association with the Arabs, Linnaeus, the great Danish naturalist and
the inventor of modern scientific taxonomy, named the plant Coffea
arabica.
When coffee was first introduced to Europe, it was
used as a food or medicine; the oil-rich berries were pulverized and
mixed with fat. Later ground coffee was mixed into wine and cooked to
provide what must have been a quite stimulating and intense
refreshment. Coffee was not brewed as a drink until around 1100 in
Europe, and only in the thirteenth century did the modern practice of
roasting coffee beans begin in Syria. Though coffee was an Old
World plant and was used in some circles a long time before tea,
nevertheless tea cleared the way for the popularity of coffee. Their
stimulant properties made caffeine in coffee and its close cousin
theobromine in tea the ideal drugs for the Industrial Revolution: they
provided an energy lift, enabling people to keep working at repetitious
tasks that demanded concentration. Indeed, the tea and coffee break is
the only drug ritual that has never been criticized by those who profit
from the modern industrial state. Nevertheless, it is well established
that coffee is addictive, causes stomach ulcers, can aggravate heart
conditions, and can cause irritability and insomnia and, in excessive
doses, even tremors and convulsions. CONTRA COFFEE
Coffee
has not been without its detractors, but they have always been in the
minority. Coffee was widely blamed for the death of the French minister
Colbert, who died of stomach cancer. Goethe blamed his habitual Gaffe
latte for his chronic melancholia and his attacks of anxiety. Coffee
has also been blamed for causing what Lewin called "an excessive state
of brain-excitation which becomes manifest by a remarkable
loquaciousness sometimes accompanied by accelerated association of
ideas. It may also be observed in coffee house politicians who drink
cup after cup of black coffee and by this abuse are inspired to
profound wisdom on all earthly events."
The tendency to
excessive raving after coffee drinking apparently lay behind several
edicts against coffee issued in Europe in 1511.
The prince of Waldeck
pioneered an early version of the drug-snitch program when he offered a
reward of ten thalers to anyone who would report a coffee drinker to
the authorities. Even servants were rewarded if they informed on
employers who had sold them coffee.
By 1777, however; authorities in
continental Europe recognized the suitability of coffee for use by the
pillars of dominator society: the clergy and the aristocracy.
Punishment for a coffee offense by members of less privileged classes
was usually a public caning followed by fines.
And, of course,
coffee was once widely suspected of causing impotence: It has
frequently been stated that the drinking of coffee diminishes sexual
excitability and gives rise to sterility. Though this is a mere fable,
it was believed in former times. Olearius says in the account of his
travels that the Persians drink "the hot, black water Chawae" whose
property it is "to sterilize nature and extinguish carnal desires." A
sultan was so greatly attracted by coffee that he became tired of his
wife. The latter one day saw a stallion being castrated and declared
that it would be better to give the animal coffee, and then it would be
in the same state as her husband. The Princess Palatine Elizabeth
Charlotte of Orleans, the mother of the dissipated Regent Philip II,
wrote to her sister: "Coffee is not so necessary for Protestant
ministers as for Catholic priests, who are not allowed to marry and
must remain chaste .... I am surprised that so many people like coffee,
for it has a bitter and a bad taste. I think it tastes exactly like
foul breath."" The physician-explorer Rauwolf of Augsburg, who
later became the discoverer of the first tranquilizer, the plant
extract rauwolfia, found coffee apparently long established and widely
traded in Asia Minor and Persia when he visited the area in the
mid-1570s. Accounts such as Rauwolf's soon made coffee a fad. Coffee
was introduced in Paris in 1643, and within thirty years there were
over 250 coffee houses in the city. In the years immediately preceding
the French Revolution there were nearly 2,000 coffee establishments
operating. If wild talk is the mother of revolution, then certainly
coffee and coffee houses must be its midwife.
Food of the Gods: Chocolate
CHOCOLATE
The introduction of chocolate into Europe
is almost no more than a coda to
the craze for caffeine stimulation that began with the Industrial
Revolution. Chocolate, made from the ground beans of a native Amazonian
tree, Theobroma cacao, contains only small amounts of caffeine but is
rich in caffeine's near-relative theobromine. Both are chemicals with
close relatives that occur endogenously in normal human metabolism.
Like caffeine, theobromine is a stimulant, and the addictive potential
of chocolate is significant. "
Cacao trees had been introduced
into central Mexico from tropical South America centuries before the
arrival of the Spanish conquistadores. There they had a major
sacramental role in Maya and Aztec religion. The Maya also used cacao
beans as the equivalent of money. The Aztec ruler Montezuma was said to
be seriously addicted to ground cacao; he drank his chocolate
unsweetened in a cold water infusion. A mixture of ground chocolate and
psilocybin containing mushrooms was served to the guests at the
coronation feast of Montezuma II in 1502. Cortes was informed of
the existence of cacao by his mistress, a Native American woman named
Dona Marina, who had been given to Cortes as one of nineteen young
women offered in tribute by Montezuma. Assured by Dona Marina that
cacao was a powerful aphrodisiac, Cortes was eager to begin cultivation
of the plant; he wrote to the emperor Charles V: "On the lands of one
farm two thousand trees have been planted; the fruits are similar to
almonds and are sold in a powdered state."' Shortly thereafter,
chocolate was imported into Spain, where it was soon extremely popular.
Nevertheless the spread of chocolate was slow, perhaps because so many
new stimulants were then vying for European attention. Chocolate did
not appear in Italy or the Law Countries until 1606; it reached France
and England only in the 1650s. Except for a brief period during the
reign of Frederick II, when it became the favorite vehicle for poisons
used by professional poisoners, chocolate has steadily increased in
popularity and annual tonnage produced. It is extraordinary
that in the relatively short span of two centuries four
stimulants-sugar, tea, coffee, and chocolate-could have emerged out of
local obscurity and become a basis for vast mercantile empires,
defended by the greatest military powers ever known to that time and
supported by the newly reintroduced practice of slavery. Such is the
power of "the cup that cheers, but not inebriates."
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